****There has been a Coup d’Etat. Hadij, my host mom sits over our fish and rice lunch and shakes her head. The government is bad, she tells me, this (she waves her hand over the rice) it’s too expensive. She is unsatisfied with the current state of the economy welcomes change, even though democracy is threatened. I find out information from bits of French news on T.V. and word of mouth. The president Sidi Ould Cheikh Abdallahi has been kidnapped and 11 military officials, lead by Mohamed Ould Abdelaziz, have ousted the government and taken over the capital. There are many protests over weekend supporting and protesting the coup. Hundreds of Mauritanians march the streets with signs and honk car horns, democracy may be in straits, but it is alive. Most are not surprised as Mauritania only recently had its first smooth election transition with democracy. From the Mauritanians I’ve talked to, this seems normal and will be remedied soon. There is a little tension overseas, but for the most parts all seems peaceful. The directors of Peace Corps keep close tabs on the news and update us frequently.
****A little girl peeks over the wall at me, I smile immediately. She is my buddy – petite Hadij. She had the same name as my host mom, and the same silly attitude too. I beckon her over and she climbs the wall into my courtyard. Her bright yellow dress looks perfect next her dark chocolate skin. Petite Hadij speaks only Hassaniya, and I only know bits and pieces. Though who needs language when you have a secret handshake? We created one shortly after meeting each other and we use it often. Petite Hadij loves to sit next to me under our tent in the courtyard and watch me make my English lesson plans for the following day. I let her use my colored pencils and she draws little pictures at my feet. Sometimes she dances. Tongue clicks and feet flying she shows me how to get down Mauritanian style. I found out the other day that her mom died the past year, and grande Hadij (my host mom) is one of petite Hadij’s caretakers – one of the reasons she is at our house so often. You would never be able to tell, her personality as bright as the yellow dress she wears so often. I’ll miss her sunny face peaking over the wall when I leave my host family. In my mind she’ll be dancing forever.
****”Do you understand?” Murbana asks me with imploring eyes. “Who is that? Is that the wife of the main character?” I ask. Murbana and I sit outside my house on a mat with a T.V. in front of us. The T.V. cord stretched from a plug in the saloon, and after some fiddling we got the reception working. We are watching a Wolof (Senegalese and Mauritanian culture) Drama that is very soap-opera-like. Murbana is Senegalese and speaks French, Hassaniya, Wolof and a little tiny bit of English. She is sitting next to me braiding my hair, translating the show from Wolof into French. “You see, that is the husband and that girl there is trying to be with the husband. She is pregnant and does not know who the father is. She needs to get married, so she will try to trick him… Watch!” She explains. With Murbana’s translations, I am heavily invested in the show. I lean forward and flick an ant off the screen. We hear the pot of rice and fish shift on the coals and the boiling water softly hisses. Murbana gets up and expertly adjusts the pot, most of her attention on the show. She is eighteen-years-old and is currently working for Hadij. She does some of the cooking and cleaning around the house – she may or may not get paid, that I haven’t exactly figured out, but she does get treated well and eats with us. She is beautiful. Her oval eyes are wide and shine with kindness, her thin face and African skin framed with a white and pink mulafe (veil, wrapped around body and head). I enjoy spending my afternoons sitting and chatting with her about Senegal and telling her stories from America. We laugh about my few words in Hassiniya and her few words in English, and we teach each other as much as we can. Murbana sits next to me again and continues with my braids. She informed me earlier that braids were necessary and made me go buy some rubber bands so she could do my hair. “See,” She says pointing at the T.V. “This is the real wife, she is going to be angry when she finds him with that girl.” I nod in agreement and the Wolof drama mixes with the Mauritanian sounds of goats braying and lunch over coals.
****”You will help me tonight.” My host mom Hadij announces. I laugh and agree, unsurprised by now at her forwardness. Dinner is cooking and the night surrounds us, a cool breeze whisking the heat off the day baked earth. My mom has just fixed the refrigerator that had been sitting in the corner of the saloon and changed the whole thing into a freezer. She now sells Bisap (a cold red drink) and bags of ice from her house. Tonight she is making more bottles and I am helping her. We sit on the bidons (yellow jugs of water) and begin the process. Boil the Bisap leaves, strain the juice, mix with water, mix with sugar and red drink mix and finally add the special essence (which is some unknown herb). I chat with her about my day as I clean out the bottles. Bisap bottles are reused water bottles – and when a customer drinks one, they return the bottle so it can be reused again. I clean the bottles with bleach and water, shaking them and wiping the tops, then passing them to Hadij to be filled. Salem, my host cousin, sits next to us playing cards with his friend. We taste our creation and smile at each other. “Me,” Hadij announces “I am a fabulous cook. One day I will go to America and make lots of money.” I laugh and agree on her cooking skills but try unsuccessfully to explain the inner-workings of American business. After we finish, I take a cold Bisap from the fridge and enjoy the icy delicious treat. “Make sure you tell your friends.” She tells me “There is enough for all of them now – only 50 ouguiya.” Sure, I tell her, they love the Bisap, I will have them come over tomorrow.
****It is early morning and I have just returned from an excellent run with one of my Peace Corps friends. My capri’s are dripping with sweat and the morning air is cool, just starting to warm. We ran along the main road and our minds wandered over the vast and dusty landscape dotted with green. The cars that rushed past us were driven by turban-wrapped men with sunglasses and we prided ourselves at being faster than the donkey carts. In the dunes and ditches, we caught glances of the slaughtering of goats and camels to be sold in the market. Back at my house, there was no water. I need my bucket bath and we do not have a water pump in our compound. I grab a bidon and a 20 ouguiya coin and walk down the street to the local boutique. They know me by now, and we exchange morning greetings and they fill my jug at the pump. I also grab a piece of bread and butter, the bread still fresh and warm, just brought in by the local baker. I lug the water back to my house, still quiet, and sit on the jug. As I eat my bread I watch the morning stretch across the sky.
****There is a goat head in the hand of my host cousin, Salem’s. He stands next to me and I stare at the lunch laid out before me. I just got back from teaching a morning English class and my appetite is wavering as the bloody blank eyed goat stares at me. Today Hadij is having a party, and to celebrate a goat was brought into out compound and slaughtered. It arrived the day before and stood braying for hours, perhaps knowing of the impending doom. I did my laundry that day and as my clothes hung on the line the mischievous goat hooked one of my t-shirts on its horn and ran around our yard. Hadij and her friend laughed deep belly shaking laughs as they watched me chase the white goat with a bright blue t-shirt attached to its head. I finally caught it and adjusted my clothes line a little higher, out of goat-horn range and laughed at the silly situation. Recalling the situation as I sat there eating my lunch, the white head, stained red, dangling next to me, I contemplated justice and retribution. Surely the poor goat didn’t deserve to be my dinner that night, but it was nice to know my future laundry was no longer in danger.
****I stand in front of my classroom. The front of my shirt dusted with chalk and my fingers smeared with erased words. I am teaching summer school and my students are in high-school (sixth year Lycee in Mauritania). Because it is summer school, there are not a lot of students; only about 20 show up each day. Today I’m teaching about Present Perfect and Present Perfect Progressive, a lesson I had to review and teach to myself again. English is not an easy language, and you soon discover that though you may know how to create a sentence, it’s very difficult to explain how it’s done. “Teacher, teacher!” They shout, snapping their fingers in the air when they know the answer. I feel comfortable teaching and though the summer school is a lot of work, it is also great practice for when I will have regular English classes during the school-year. Five days a week I create a lesson plan and teach for one or two hours a day. This will go on for three weeks, and then I will test my students and give the top students prizes. “What is the Past Participle of ‘to go’?” I ask them. I am met with dozens of snapping fingers and I choose a student, “Gone!” she answers. In Mauritania, the summer school kids are smart.
****I stifle a laugh as I sit on a rock in our yard. I am watching my host cousin Salam and our dog. Salem is standing by the dog with a bottle of black watery liquid in his hand. “Le chien est malade” He tells me. The dog is, as a matter of fact, sick. It has black bugs that resemble ticks on its back, face and ears. I’m sure it picked up some sort of disease in the thousands of garbage dumps that surround us. It’s a funny sight though, watching Salem apprehensively brushing black liquid onto the dog, quickly backing up and staring as the dog nonchalantly stares back at him. The dog, brown and white, slowly changes to black and brown as Salem brushed on the ‘medicine’. “Look at him…” Hadij scoffs “Salem, the ‘le médecin de chien’.” This makes me laugh out loud. Salem looks at me and I see a smile at the corner of him lips – the dog doctor. My mom is now laughing too, commenting on how soon, the dog will be as black as ‘le médecin de chien’. This has us all roaring as we watch the once white, now black dog, trot away and escape through a hole in the wall.
****Computers buzz around us and a wall fan hums, pushing around hot air. I am at the local Cyber with me new friend Cheihk. He works there and through talking with me and the other volunteers that frequent the internet café, has come to understand I teach English. He expressed his desire to learn English and asked if I could help him, so now I come a couple times a week to teach him one hour lessons – in exchange of course, for one hour free internet. This works out very well for both of us. I get to save my Peace Corps money for other things and still get to use the internet every week and Cheihk gets to learn English 101. I get the extra bonus of working on my French with him, as he is fluent.
****My Peace Corps friends and I lie on the roof and stare at the night sky. We are taking a break from ‘cultural integration’ and having a small American gathering. Our heads in a circle and our minds ticking, we discuss our life in Mauritania. The conversation shifts from hilarious conversations about pooping (a common subject here…) and deep thoughts about religion and government. They have quickly become my family. We support each other when our minds can’t wrap around a cultural norm, and ease the tension with jokes when we are sick and frustrated. Sometimes we lay quietly, silenced by the beauty of the endless sky. Shooting stars start up discussions once again and we chat into the Mauritanian air.
Sunday, August 24, 2008
Tuesday, July 29, 2008
Lesson 1
The National Syllabus booklet dropped on the desk in front of me, sending up puffs of dust from my desk into the air. I thumb through the photocopied paper bound with a plastic spiral. Inside those pages are the building blocks to my future success as an English Teacher in Mauritania. I stretch my neck around and take in the classroom. Basic. There is a chalkboard, broken and chipped on the wall with lesson plans of the past scrawled in French and Arabic. There are rows of desks in bench style crammed against each other, time and weather worn. The walls, ceiling and floor are all cement, the windows are sparse and the paint is thin. In these schools the learning environment must come directly from the person standing in front of the room. Most things, actually, must come from directly from the teacher. In the majority of the schools there are no books, rather, you create the book as you teach. Each word written on that blackboard will be published on the spot, written as law inside the notebooks of students. The education system in Mauritania is anything but desirable. A rough history of reforms and disagreements split minds on what and how things should be taught. These discussions push classroom supplies, management and upkeep into the background. Surprising? Not at all. Frustrating? Infinitely.
To start, it’s important to note is that Mauritania is divided in many ways, like so many of its African sisters. Colonized by France, Mauritania became independent in 1961. This was long enough for traditions of French school systems, government and politics to saturate the culture. Before the 1999 reform schools were taught patchwork quilt style. Each region and school adapted to a different style of education and language depended on geographical location. After 1999 schools developed a language-specific education style. Science type classes (math, biology and chemistry) are taught in French while Humanities type (theology, history, religion) classes are taught in Arabic. English education is a requirement and begins halfway through College (equivalent to American middle school) and continues through Lycee (equivalent to American high-school). I spent a good amount of time and wasted a good amount of paper figuring out and internalizing the system.
In comparison to the American school system there is one thing that stands out in my mind. Teaching to tests is very prevalent. And it’s getting worse. The requirements to graduate Lycee (taking the Brevet) are getting more rigorous and graduating College (taking the Bach) is next to impossible. There are many brick walls for Mauritanian youth as they make their way through an already perplexing system. A student is extremely lucky to make it to University (American College) and if they do get there, they better have the resources to travel out of country to get to a good facility. One can only begin to imagine the mental damage such a frustrating system can cause on the psyche.
On top of all this, the shinning façade of the Millennium Development Goals comes into play. MDGs, in short, are 8 sector specific guidelines to achieve preconceived goals determined by the United Nations meant to directly improve a developing country’s status and economy by 2015. Though, something along the way of achieving these goals is beginning to sour – a case of good intentions gone wrong. Take Mauritania’s approach to the education MDG into consideration. The goal is to achieve universal primary education – an objective that is great, solid and measurable. The Ministry of Education in Mauritania is starting to achieved this goal but at a grave cost. The push to get more kids in school has worked, but now, there aren’t enough crumbly schools for all those kids and many are being taught by poorly educated/trained teachers. Too many kids and not enough teachers is the name of the game. This is why when I finally land my spot in the classroom, 90+ sets of eyes will be staring back at me. I’ll have the usual mix of jaded burnt out pre-teens, over-achievers and some that just don’t care. Yet these students will be jammed into a hot classroom, fighting for desk space and wondering why the hell I’m teaching in their village. Sounds fun right? But alas, I’m up for the challenge.
For many students, the burning question bubbles from the sulfurous surface “what can an education do for me anyway”. I respond – if nothing else, an education gives you self worth. No matter what you’re learning or who you are, when you learn you discover; you discover more about yourself and others. When it comes down to it, I’m teaching English to these kids so they can pass the test and head toward higher learning, not so they can have conversations with other people in the street. Most will not continue, many will fail and the few lucky ones will struggle. I’m going to try my hardest to teach them to my greatest ability, and try to develop side projects to get the creative juices flowing. I’m going to run into walls with my kids, and I’m going to get lost in the maze – but it’s good to know education is a universal struggle, that I have solidarity over seas. Plus, as a bonus, I just picked up a box of colored chalk at the market and it comes with the color green.
To start, it’s important to note is that Mauritania is divided in many ways, like so many of its African sisters. Colonized by France, Mauritania became independent in 1961. This was long enough for traditions of French school systems, government and politics to saturate the culture. Before the 1999 reform schools were taught patchwork quilt style. Each region and school adapted to a different style of education and language depended on geographical location. After 1999 schools developed a language-specific education style. Science type classes (math, biology and chemistry) are taught in French while Humanities type (theology, history, religion) classes are taught in Arabic. English education is a requirement and begins halfway through College (equivalent to American middle school) and continues through Lycee (equivalent to American high-school). I spent a good amount of time and wasted a good amount of paper figuring out and internalizing the system.
In comparison to the American school system there is one thing that stands out in my mind. Teaching to tests is very prevalent. And it’s getting worse. The requirements to graduate Lycee (taking the Brevet) are getting more rigorous and graduating College (taking the Bach) is next to impossible. There are many brick walls for Mauritanian youth as they make their way through an already perplexing system. A student is extremely lucky to make it to University (American College) and if they do get there, they better have the resources to travel out of country to get to a good facility. One can only begin to imagine the mental damage such a frustrating system can cause on the psyche.
On top of all this, the shinning façade of the Millennium Development Goals comes into play. MDGs, in short, are 8 sector specific guidelines to achieve preconceived goals determined by the United Nations meant to directly improve a developing country’s status and economy by 2015. Though, something along the way of achieving these goals is beginning to sour – a case of good intentions gone wrong. Take Mauritania’s approach to the education MDG into consideration. The goal is to achieve universal primary education – an objective that is great, solid and measurable. The Ministry of Education in Mauritania is starting to achieved this goal but at a grave cost. The push to get more kids in school has worked, but now, there aren’t enough crumbly schools for all those kids and many are being taught by poorly educated/trained teachers. Too many kids and not enough teachers is the name of the game. This is why when I finally land my spot in the classroom, 90+ sets of eyes will be staring back at me. I’ll have the usual mix of jaded burnt out pre-teens, over-achievers and some that just don’t care. Yet these students will be jammed into a hot classroom, fighting for desk space and wondering why the hell I’m teaching in their village. Sounds fun right? But alas, I’m up for the challenge.
For many students, the burning question bubbles from the sulfurous surface “what can an education do for me anyway”. I respond – if nothing else, an education gives you self worth. No matter what you’re learning or who you are, when you learn you discover; you discover more about yourself and others. When it comes down to it, I’m teaching English to these kids so they can pass the test and head toward higher learning, not so they can have conversations with other people in the street. Most will not continue, many will fail and the few lucky ones will struggle. I’m going to try my hardest to teach them to my greatest ability, and try to develop side projects to get the creative juices flowing. I’m going to run into walls with my kids, and I’m going to get lost in the maze – but it’s good to know education is a universal struggle, that I have solidarity over seas. Plus, as a bonus, I just picked up a box of colored chalk at the market and it comes with the color green.
Saturday, July 12, 2008
boom snap clap
As the daylight faded and the heat began to sizzle out of the Mauritanian air, I sat on the ground with my new friend Abdughai. He tends to come around our courtyard at dinner time to eat with us – and to make us laugh. At 13-years-old he has an explosive personality. He always has something to say, and though our conversations are stunted by our broken French, we have no problem finding something to giggle about. This particular night I was showing Abdughai a hand clap called “Boom, Snap, Clap” (shout out to OTR summer day-camp pre-teen girls for instilling those skillz). I would show him a section and have him repeat it; smack the chest, snap the fingers, clap the hands in a rhythmic beat. He sat facing me with determination in his eyes, stretching out a dirty yellow polo three sizes to big over his knees. “Un, deux, trois…” Again and again we beat out the rhythm, laughing at his mistakes and cheering at success. My host mom was stretched out beside us, lazily lying on her side observing my crazy antics once again. She laughed at our game and would occasionally call my name, trying to imitate the hand clap, but failing miserably. Eventually Abdughai succeeded and we celebrated with a victory dance (above all Abdughai loves to dance) and washed our hands to eat.
I still can’t figure out the complex structures of support here, but I have discovered a whole village does indeed raise a child. There always seem to be children here and there, brothers and sisters in and out, and visitors that end up staying for days. My host mom Hadij takes it all in stride, accepting visitors with ease – Bismillah means welcome, and in Mauritania it is the unquestionable way of life. This type of acceptance and sharing splits off into a rather odd direction, a behavior which I encounter every day. That is, the complexities surrounding “donne-moi”. Give me. Give me this and that and – oh – that too. It is something I know I will have to get used to here, as it slightly grinds my pride and extends just beyond my realm of cultural normalcy. It happens as I walk down the street and a woman shouts “give me your skirt!”, or in my home when Hadij sees my crazy American things “I loooooooove this! Give it to me!”. It’s everywhere. Even my language facilitator Jiddou, who teaches me French 6 hours a day isn’t withheld from asking me and my classmates for medicine for his awful toothache. The persistent “donne-moi” makes one feel slightly objectified. Yet – this begging doesn’t come without reason. My mirror, shoes and Peace Corps issued medical kit are mesmerizing to someone who lives in a society where everyone has the same things. Variety isn’t really a common word around here. The local market sells one laundry soap, one bucket (for bathing, laundry and kitchen use), one type of tea class… etc. The colors may vary, but the items are lackluster. This combined with a lifestyle that seems to draw from socialism creates a pardon when it comes to asking for others property. Looking closely, I see that this doesn’t solely apply to me, but to everyone in their culture. I heard Hadij ask a visitor of ours once for money. She later debriefed me that he had “beaucoup de l’argent” and could probably spare some.
This asking doesn’t go without giving. I sat with my host mom one afternoon as we ate her delicious fried fish, rice and veggie plate called Chebugen and talked about families. After a long, slightly hilarious conversation where I explained where Missouri was and why I had family in Belize, she told me about her family that live in the capital, Nouakchott. She explained to me that she had an older sister and brother and a mother. Her dad passed away in 2005 and because she has no children as her siblings do, her income goes straight to her mother, who is unemployed. Her Peace Corps issued money falls into many hands. This combined with the many visitors and children that make their way into our courtyard doesn’t make living easy. After many conversations about money and the complexities of the American dream, Hadij still believes she can become an exquisite chef in the USA, but has slightly eased up on asking me for my things. She shook her stirring spoon at Abdughai the other night when he asked me for 200 UM (equivalent to 90 cents) telling him to stop because I have no money. Hearing her yell at Abdughai was a great moment, not only because it sent Abdughai into a ‘you-can’t-catch-me-with-that-spoon’ dance, but also because I think we are beginning to understand eachother.
Last night I lay underneath the stars as Saalem made his rounds of tea and the whirring background of Hassaniya filled my head. I wrote in my journal and shooed the family goat away from my paper. Hadij asked what I was doing and I explained to her the best I could that it was for writing stories and letters. She took my journal from my and gazed at my scribbled English. With a click of her tongue she disapproved of my language preference and asked to write in my journal the “right way”. I laughed and passed over my book, opening to a fresh page. Hadij proceeded to write me a letter in Arabic showing me each word and explaining what it meant. Basically, it was a blessing on my name. The journal page then turned into an Arabic lesson as she drew different animals found in Mauritania and had me write the French name next to the Hassaniya name. We laughed, our heads crowded over the journal, when she tried to sketch a lizard, which turned into more of a snake.
My host mom and I are coming to a balance. Like every situation we have our good and bad days, but most bad days indicate a lack of cultural understanding between us. Each day, a small step, I begin to delve into the complexities – and when things do get rough, you should know that Mauritania has some really delicious mangos.
I still can’t figure out the complex structures of support here, but I have discovered a whole village does indeed raise a child. There always seem to be children here and there, brothers and sisters in and out, and visitors that end up staying for days. My host mom Hadij takes it all in stride, accepting visitors with ease – Bismillah means welcome, and in Mauritania it is the unquestionable way of life. This type of acceptance and sharing splits off into a rather odd direction, a behavior which I encounter every day. That is, the complexities surrounding “donne-moi”. Give me. Give me this and that and – oh – that too. It is something I know I will have to get used to here, as it slightly grinds my pride and extends just beyond my realm of cultural normalcy. It happens as I walk down the street and a woman shouts “give me your skirt!”, or in my home when Hadij sees my crazy American things “I loooooooove this! Give it to me!”. It’s everywhere. Even my language facilitator Jiddou, who teaches me French 6 hours a day isn’t withheld from asking me and my classmates for medicine for his awful toothache. The persistent “donne-moi” makes one feel slightly objectified. Yet – this begging doesn’t come without reason. My mirror, shoes and Peace Corps issued medical kit are mesmerizing to someone who lives in a society where everyone has the same things. Variety isn’t really a common word around here. The local market sells one laundry soap, one bucket (for bathing, laundry and kitchen use), one type of tea class… etc. The colors may vary, but the items are lackluster. This combined with a lifestyle that seems to draw from socialism creates a pardon when it comes to asking for others property. Looking closely, I see that this doesn’t solely apply to me, but to everyone in their culture. I heard Hadij ask a visitor of ours once for money. She later debriefed me that he had “beaucoup de l’argent” and could probably spare some.
This asking doesn’t go without giving. I sat with my host mom one afternoon as we ate her delicious fried fish, rice and veggie plate called Chebugen and talked about families. After a long, slightly hilarious conversation where I explained where Missouri was and why I had family in Belize, she told me about her family that live in the capital, Nouakchott. She explained to me that she had an older sister and brother and a mother. Her dad passed away in 2005 and because she has no children as her siblings do, her income goes straight to her mother, who is unemployed. Her Peace Corps issued money falls into many hands. This combined with the many visitors and children that make their way into our courtyard doesn’t make living easy. After many conversations about money and the complexities of the American dream, Hadij still believes she can become an exquisite chef in the USA, but has slightly eased up on asking me for my things. She shook her stirring spoon at Abdughai the other night when he asked me for 200 UM (equivalent to 90 cents) telling him to stop because I have no money. Hearing her yell at Abdughai was a great moment, not only because it sent Abdughai into a ‘you-can’t-catch-me-with-that-spoon’ dance, but also because I think we are beginning to understand eachother.
Last night I lay underneath the stars as Saalem made his rounds of tea and the whirring background of Hassaniya filled my head. I wrote in my journal and shooed the family goat away from my paper. Hadij asked what I was doing and I explained to her the best I could that it was for writing stories and letters. She took my journal from my and gazed at my scribbled English. With a click of her tongue she disapproved of my language preference and asked to write in my journal the “right way”. I laughed and passed over my book, opening to a fresh page. Hadij proceeded to write me a letter in Arabic showing me each word and explaining what it meant. Basically, it was a blessing on my name. The journal page then turned into an Arabic lesson as she drew different animals found in Mauritania and had me write the French name next to the Hassaniya name. We laughed, our heads crowded over the journal, when she tried to sketch a lizard, which turned into more of a snake.
My host mom and I are coming to a balance. Like every situation we have our good and bad days, but most bad days indicate a lack of cultural understanding between us. Each day, a small step, I begin to delve into the complexities – and when things do get rough, you should know that Mauritania has some really delicious mangos.
Friday, July 4, 2008
The more things seem to change, the more they stay the same
In Africa, people still laugh when you trip over yourself. I found this to be true during a Mauritanian dust/rainstorm the other night as my host family frantically ran around the rooms of my house. They quickly put buckets under the leaks, closed up the broken, splinter-wooden windows and pulled the blankets off the laundry line in the courtyard. While my host mom – Hadij – and her friend folded up the dirty carpet in one of the rooms I tried to jump over some buckets into the wet room and slid across the muddy floor, lanky arms flailing, and caught my balance before I tumbled onto the ground. I looked over at Hadij with wide eyes fixing my long skirt and adjusting my head wrap. The thunder of the storm couldn’t compete with the thunderous laughter that came from those two ladies. For a while the rain that clanged and poured through the tin roof onto the muddy concrete floor was forgotten as repeated impressions of my stumble ensued. I came to the conclusion long ago that when I trip in a new country, it’s a good sign. And good sign indeed. Mauritania is growing on me.
Mauritania isn’t a place that awes and amazes an onlooker – rather it’s a place that can very easily shock and disgust. But you have to look past the dusty, garbage covered ground and beyond the dilapidated concrete houses. You must understand that burping and spitting are expected and eating with your hands is necessary. You have to expect that the kid in the torn t-shirt dragging the goat by the leg across the street is probably on a dinner mission. (probably). When glanced at, it’s hard at first to see that tires and cassette tape guts are great toys, and difficult to tell the difference from a designated garbage dump site and someone’s courtyard. I’m slowly figuring things out.
My name in Mauritania is Noura. Noura Fall. My host mom Hadij promptly assigned it to me within the first two minutes of meeting me. When I first arrived the moment was almost overwhelming. I pulled up in a car to what seemed to be a house on a dusty road and my car was immediately surrounded by a large group of children. “Bonjour Madame! Ca va, ca va ca va?” The screamed as they fought to shake my hand. After a sternly barked order from a woman who was obviously the authority, the children scattered like ants and I was escorted out of the car. I was then pushed into a room where I encountered smiling faces of some plump looking women wearing thin cloths that covered their hair and extended to wrap around their body like a dress (called a Mulaffa). They chattered to each other and laughed at the sight of the new Toubabs (American’s or foreigners). I was handed over to my mother who, short, stout and smiling with melted chocolate skin and mischievous eyes, named me Noura.
Hadij grabbed my bag and we walked along the dirt-sand road through a maze of a neighborhood, stopping periodically to chat with neighbors; when I say ‘chat with neighbors’ I mostly mean to show me off - her Toubab and the latest fashion accessory. We arrived at my new house and stepped over a large pile of sand and pushed open a rusty door – held closed by a stretched string of rubber attached to the ground. I was greeted by my new friends – a fat goat, a scruffy dog and a mangy cat. I soon met my nephew Jacob, who is 15 and a soccer playing feign, and my cousin Salem, a tea-making expert. They showed me to my room, which is a extreme sun-faded yellow, has four walls, two windows, lots of ants and a foam mat on the floor. I stood in my room and smiled as the afternoon sun shone a dusty strip in the air. Having my own place in this large foreign place was comforting.
I’ve been stripped off most of my American ‘comforts’ and I have already gone through extreme change. The lack of: toilet paper, English language, showers and air conditioning are just the beginning. I live among stark poverty. I see people stricken with Malaria and children with tomato cans beg for money and food. I see goats lay down to sleep with people and small girls with babies tied to their backs. There are so many things different from what I was used to. But, there are also card games and tea, family meals and morning coffee (instant Nescafe still counts!). There are jokes and laughter, there’s complaining and praising and dancing to music and drums. There are friendships and family ties. I look forward to figuring out more as I become a part of my community and share culture with culture. So many things different, and so many things the same. I think I tripped into the right place.
Mauritania isn’t a place that awes and amazes an onlooker – rather it’s a place that can very easily shock and disgust. But you have to look past the dusty, garbage covered ground and beyond the dilapidated concrete houses. You must understand that burping and spitting are expected and eating with your hands is necessary. You have to expect that the kid in the torn t-shirt dragging the goat by the leg across the street is probably on a dinner mission. (probably). When glanced at, it’s hard at first to see that tires and cassette tape guts are great toys, and difficult to tell the difference from a designated garbage dump site and someone’s courtyard. I’m slowly figuring things out.
My name in Mauritania is Noura. Noura Fall. My host mom Hadij promptly assigned it to me within the first two minutes of meeting me. When I first arrived the moment was almost overwhelming. I pulled up in a car to what seemed to be a house on a dusty road and my car was immediately surrounded by a large group of children. “Bonjour Madame! Ca va, ca va ca va?” The screamed as they fought to shake my hand. After a sternly barked order from a woman who was obviously the authority, the children scattered like ants and I was escorted out of the car. I was then pushed into a room where I encountered smiling faces of some plump looking women wearing thin cloths that covered their hair and extended to wrap around their body like a dress (called a Mulaffa). They chattered to each other and laughed at the sight of the new Toubabs (American’s or foreigners). I was handed over to my mother who, short, stout and smiling with melted chocolate skin and mischievous eyes, named me Noura.
Hadij grabbed my bag and we walked along the dirt-sand road through a maze of a neighborhood, stopping periodically to chat with neighbors; when I say ‘chat with neighbors’ I mostly mean to show me off - her Toubab and the latest fashion accessory. We arrived at my new house and stepped over a large pile of sand and pushed open a rusty door – held closed by a stretched string of rubber attached to the ground. I was greeted by my new friends – a fat goat, a scruffy dog and a mangy cat. I soon met my nephew Jacob, who is 15 and a soccer playing feign, and my cousin Salem, a tea-making expert. They showed me to my room, which is a extreme sun-faded yellow, has four walls, two windows, lots of ants and a foam mat on the floor. I stood in my room and smiled as the afternoon sun shone a dusty strip in the air. Having my own place in this large foreign place was comforting.
I’ve been stripped off most of my American ‘comforts’ and I have already gone through extreme change. The lack of: toilet paper, English language, showers and air conditioning are just the beginning. I live among stark poverty. I see people stricken with Malaria and children with tomato cans beg for money and food. I see goats lay down to sleep with people and small girls with babies tied to their backs. There are so many things different from what I was used to. But, there are also card games and tea, family meals and morning coffee (instant Nescafe still counts!). There are jokes and laughter, there’s complaining and praising and dancing to music and drums. There are friendships and family ties. I look forward to figuring out more as I become a part of my community and share culture with culture. So many things different, and so many things the same. I think I tripped into the right place.
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